Diagnosing Air Conditioning

Our central air wasn’t working, so I had to fix it.

The furnace and thermostat were working fine, because warm air was blowing throughout the house. After a couple of minutes and it still wasn’t blowing cold air, I started looking around.

First step, walk outside and see if the fan was running.

image of the outside unit of a central air conditioning system

It was not.

Second step, look up “central air outside fan not working” on the internet. Also, “how to check air conditioner” and “troubleshoot central air”.

Third step, start probing around the unit. I used a standard voltage sensor, shown here.

image of a standard household (mains) voltage tester

Here are the steps for probing around.

Step A: Turn off the power
At the fuse box

image of the external fuse box for central air conditioning system

Step B: Open the fan unit
At the back

image of the outside unit of a central air conditioning system

image of the outside unit of a central air conditioning system with the cover off

Here you can see the relay (contactor) and capacitor. The capacitor is the metal can on the bottom right of the enclosure. The relay is the black thing with the white label at the top left, with all the wires.

Step C: Turn the power back on
At the fuse box

image of the external fuse box for a central air conditioning system

Step D: Check power
At the unit, very carefully

This is the relay. Some refer to it as the contactor.

image of the relay or contactor in a central air conditioning system

I took the tester and touched the red probe to the red wire and the black probe to the black wire. Not actually the wire, but the screws where the wires terminated.

What should have happened was the tester should have lit up.

But it didn’t.

That was odd, but I figured I got the wrong side of the relay. So I moved the tester to the other red/black pair of screws.

Still no voltage.

I followed the wires back and saw that I had the right screws the first time.

I took the tester to the fuse box.

Red probe to the top of one fuse and black to the top of the other fuse.

Note: I took the On/Off switch out of the socket just for these photos, but it needs to be in for the actual troubleshooting.

image of the external fuse box for a central air conditioning system

Light! That meant there was voltage.

Then I moved the probes to the bottoms of the fuses.

No light! That meant a fuse was bad.

The central air unit uses 240V, which is two opposing 120V lines. Each fuse is a 120V line, so to find the bad fuse, I went from the bottom of each fuse to ground.

image of the external fuse box for a central air conditioning system

The first one lit up the 120V indicator, so that fuse was fine. The second fuse did not light anything, so it was bad.

I went to the nearby hardware store and got a pack of two fuses for $13.00.

Problem solved.

Now my AC blows cold air.

And I didn’t have to replace the capacitor like most of the search results suggested I would have to do.

His speech was smoother than butter, But his heart was war; His words were softer than oil, Yet they were drawn swords.

Psalm 55:21

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This little article thingy was written by Some Guy sometime around 6:41 am and has been carefully placed in the Projects category.

2 Responses to “Diagnosing Air Conditioning”

  1. Bryan Logan Says:

    So when you replace the fuse, do you put it in really carefully? Or do you shutoff that box from the upstream fuse box (if it’s connected to that and not a separate “system”).

  2. Some Guy Says:

    This fuse box is downstream of the circuit breaker, so I shut off power there first.

    I could have left it on because the disconnect at the top of the fuse box removes power from the fuse terminals. But I chose to play it safe.

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